Tag: West Highland Way

This summer I hiked the West Highland Way with a friend. One of the bonuses of that hike was visiting Glasgow a couple of days before the hike and Edinburgh for a few days after the hike.

The West Highland Way starts out near Glasgow. I’m fortunate that I can pick up one of the reasonable Aer Lingus flights that go through Dublin and then on to various locations in Europe – including Glasgow. At the Dublin airport, you take a bus out to the smaller planes on the tarmac. I must say some of us were amused to pull up to this plane that was possibly older than many of us. But we had a smooth hour or so trip into Glasgow.

My friend and I opted to take a private room at the HI Glasgow Youth Hostel, located in a beautiful residential area with 4 -5 story row type houses at the edge of Kelvingrove Park. Directly across the park was the University of Glasgow. The hostel was also about a 30-minute walk from the city center and train stations. One thing I had lost track of in Scotland was the latitude. On the first night, after traveling all night and arriving in the morning, the plan was to stay awake until the sun went down (9-ish) and head to bed. We were there right before the summer solstice and at 10:30 pm (23:30) the sun was still up, and even when the sun set, there was still lots of light. So out came the sleep masks, but I did enjoy looking out the window late at night with plenty of light to see.

View Out Our Window

The huge park, bordering the Kelvin River, and with a number of beautiful walkways, was our gateway to the University of Glasgow campus and the wonderful museums in the west end of the city. The weekend we were there (in late June), there was a huge festival in the park with music and other live events. From our perch at the hostel on the hill at the edge of the park, we were able to enjoy the music in the evening without dealing with the crowds.

Our first stop was the University of Glasgow campus with its medieval structures up on the hill.

University of Glasgow

University of Glasgow

One of the highlights of the park area is the Kelvingrove Museum. Among other features, this museum highlights the works of Charles Rennie MackIntosh, whose style is similar to Frank Lloyd Wright from the U.S. Mackintosh is both an amazing architect and artist. Born in Glasgow, he continued to call Glasgow home for most of his life. His influence is evident throughout the city, including at the famous Glasgow School of Art (which unfortunately suffered a major fire while we were there).

Kelvingrove Museum

The Kelvingrove Museum also houses the Salvador Dali painting “Christ of St. John of the Cross’, which had just returned to the museum when we were there. It’s really a remarkable painting and we were fortunate that the museum had an expert on hand the day we visited to discuss the painting and its history.

Dali – Christ of St. John of the Cross

Among the many things that Charles Rennie Mackintosh is known for is the design of the interior and furniture of the Willow Tea Rooms. Not only is this a great ‘proper’ tea experience (plus other offerings), but you are dining in what is essentially a museum. It was terrific and I highly recommend it.

Willow Tea Rooms

Mackintosh Chairs at the Willow Tea Rooms

The Lighthouse Museum in the city center was designed by Mackintosh and is a design center and exhibition space open to the public. It’s worth a visit to wander through and enjoy the views of the city from the upper floors.

View from the Lighthouse Museum

View from the Lighthouse Museum

We visited the Gothic style Glasgow Cathedral on a dark rainy day, which added to the mystique. It is the oldest building in Glasgow and in my opinion has a bit of an earie feel, with a deep sense of history. In the back are some of the graves and memorials, all surrounded by massive Gothic Architecture.

Gothic Cathedral

Grounds at Gothic Cathedral

We also visited Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA), the Hunterian (University of Glasgow), Byer Lane area, and walked the city center in our three days there before we took the train to Mulgavie to begin our hike.

Train Travel – Through the Scottish Highlands and Then to London

By Pam Q.

On September 22, 2018

In Destinations, Lifestyle, Travel Tips

On my recent trip to Scotland and England, I took two longer train trips. The first was from Ft. William (end of the West Highland Way) in Scotland back to Edinburgh and the second was Edinburgh to London.

I fell in love with train travel when I was a kid. We didn’t have a car, and to visit relatives, we had to take the train. Traveling off the beaten path and watching the landscape go by gave me a glimpse into a world that wasn’t visible from the highway. To recapture that feeling, I try to include trains in my travel plans when it makes sense.

On the first journey, I had finished hiking the West Highland Way and was in Ft. William. The bus back to Glasgow or Edinburgh was a shorter and efficient option, but the train chugged through the very areas I had just hiked through. Throughout the hike, the trains were our frequent companion. Hikers go over the train tracks, under the train tracks, and along them in numerous locations on the trail. In other locations, you can see the train traversing the mountainside in the distance. To sit back and see the beautiful highlands and valleys through a different perspective made the decision to choose the train an easy one.

The train ride didn’t disappoint. The route meanders north for a bit and then slowly works its way through the highlands. There’s a day on the hike where for several hours you are walking along an old military road, high in the hills, above the tree line and you can’t see a living thing (except for a few other hikers) or any evidence of civilization for as far as the eye can see in all directions. When we went back through that area, imagine my surprise when the train slowed to a stop at a small station with absolutely nothing visible but a small building and a narrow vacant country road leading off from the station. A man got on the train. Where did he come from? How did he get there? What is like to live here? I would have liked to ask him those questions.

Coming out of the hills, we rode along beautiful Loch Lomond, where we had walked just days before and finally to the more populated areas. It was so nice to re-live this beautiful hike from a comfortable chair, without worrying about my footing. This was the first time I had taken a train through an area I had just hiked. To experience a beautiful area ‘up close’ for days and then to see it as a big picture was really amazing.

The second journey was from Edinburg to London. This was my first trip to England and if I had just flown to London, I would have missed the beautiful countryside and the small towns that lie outside the major cities. The train was crowded that day because an earlier train was cancelled, but it was still nice to sit back, eat my packed lunch (or you could have purchased lunch on the train), and see the sights.

There are a couple of tricks to traveling by train. First there often isn’t a lot of room for large luggage. In most cases, there’s a small luggage rack at one end of the car, but it is limited, and you might have to lift your luggage onto the shelf to get a space. There is a luggage storage area over the seats, but a bag that is U.S. carryon size is probably the largest bag that would fit. For many seats, there is a small amount of space under the seat for a small backpack or purse. If you have a large bag, and I did for both these train rides, try to get in line early so there’s a better chance you’ll find a place for your luggage if the train is crowded.

Although many trains have snacks or sometimes more for sale on the longer train rides, you might have to walk through several cars to get food and the selection is somewhat limited. I try to pick up lunch and snacks before I get on the train to avoid the hassle. Finally, just like on a plane, the temperature in the cabin is unpredictable. Dress in layers so you can remove a layer if it’s warm and carry a sweater or sweatshirt in case it’s cold.

A lot of times when we are traveling, we want to get to our destination as quickly as possible. But sometimes the journey itself can be an important part of the trip. If you want to see parts of a country outside of the tourist areas or the airports or the highways, consider taking the train and watching the scenery out the window.

Hiking the West Highland Way in Scotland

By Pam Q.

On September 3, 2018

In Destinations, Other

Top of Devil’s Staircase, Glencoe, Scotland

I’m a day hiker. Yes, I have all the backpacking gear and can occasionally be persuaded to use it, but nothing makes me happier after a good hike than a hot shower and a comfortable bed. However, day hiking for consecutive days on major trails requires long rides and complicated car spotting to make it happen.

A hybrid becoming increasingly popular (particularly in Europe) is hiking from B&B/Inn to B&B/Inn without a car. Although you can make these arrangements yourself, in some areas you can use services to find your lodging and/or transport your luggage, so you only hike with your day bag. Typically, the B&B/Inn will provide a full breakfast with other meals available in the area.

Anchorage Cottage – East Loch Lomondside, Rowardennen, Scotland

In late June I hiked the West Highland Way in Scotland over 9 consecutive days for a total of 96 miles. I used MacAdventures to find my lodging and transport my larger luggage. The lodging varied from 50-room Inns to small B & Bs to a self-contained cottage in a campground. Most were within a half mile of the trail and for the two that weren’t, the B & B owners picked me up at a local business. After a shower in my private bathroom, I was free to explore the small town, eat dinner, socialize with other guests, or simply read a book. The next morning, I woke up refreshed and ready for another day. My kind of hiking!

Bench at the start of the West Highland Way, Milngavie, Scotland

The West Highland Way starts out in Milngavie (near Glasgow) and ends in Ft. William. The trail winds through pastures and rolling hills, dense woods, along Loch Lomond, up into the magnificent highlands, and down to the valleys. Dotted along the trail are small towns with a handful of lodging and dining options. Some areas have small stores to replenish snack and lunch options, as well as ATMs and post offices. Several of the towns are on the bus or train line, which allows hikers to skip sections if they prefer not to hike the whole trail.

Bridge of Orchy, Scotland

Even though some days I was hiking with a friend or other people on the trail, much of the time I was alone with my thoughts and just soaking up the beautiful surroundings and amazing sense of peace. The second half of the hike takes you up into the highlands where I felt on top of the world and with the exception of a handful of other hikers, there were no houses, animals, people or roads for as far as the eye could see in any direction. The path in front of you and behind you just disappeared into the distance.

In the middle of the hike, we were joined on the trail by the ultramarathoners of the West Highland Way Race – a group of over 200 trail runners who were expected to complete all 96 miles in under 35 hours. They started at 1 am and the quickest finished just under 17 hours later. They were great fun to have on the trail, would occasional stop and talk for a few minutes, and seemed to appreciate our encouragement along the way. I marveled at how they could race up and down the areas I had so carefully and slowly picked my way through.

Cow Pasture Near Drymen, Scotland

Packing for a hike on the West Highland Way, with the variety of trail conditions and potential for cold and rainy weather, required me to pack more than I would normally pack. I needed full rain gear, extra socks, and clothing that would carry me from temperatures in the low 50s with frequent rain and blustery wind, to the high 80s with no escape from the bright sunshine.

View of Loch Lomond from Conic Hill, Stirling, Scotland

Multiple layers were the key. My Icebreaker 200 base layers, EMS Techwick long and short sleeve shirts, Bass fleece, and EMS Compass pants that roll up, provided me with plenty of options. Because the large bag was transported from lodging to lodging, I didn’t have to worry about the extra bulk and weight of the additional clothing.

My day pack, the Osprey Tempest 20L worked perfectly. It had enough room to carry my hiking essentials, along with water, food, and layers that were shed during the day. The inner zipped pocket worked well for carrying my passport and other valuables that had to stay with me at all times. The outer stretch pocket was perfect for keeping my raingear handy. I used the rain cover (even when it wasn’t raining) to keep everything contained and dry.

Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, Scotland

Long distance hiking offers the amazing opportunity to hike varied terrain, experience a number of spectacular views, and have the time to truly escape from the real world. But for the inexperienced hiker or the true day hiker at heart, hiking from B&B to B&B can bridge the gap between the multi-day backpacking trip and single-day hike with all the comforts of home.

Sculpture in Kinlochleven, Scotland

Travel and Packing Tips for Solo Female Travelers

Tag: West Highland Way

Three Days in Glasgow Before Hiking the West Highland Way

Train Travel – Through the Scottish Highlands and Then to London

Hiking the West Highland Way in Scotland