Tag: Scotland

This summer I hiked the West Highland Way with a friend. One of the bonuses of that hike was visiting Glasgow a couple of days before the hike (see previous post) and Edinburgh for a few days after the hike.

The day after finishing the hike, we took the long slow train ride from Ft. William back through Glasgow to Edinburgh (see earlier blog post). The UK was in the midst of a huge heat wave, and the train was significantly delayed because of issues with the track due to the heat. As we exited Waverly Station and I looked around through the warm haze, I knew I would love this city. We stayed in a private room in the HI Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel, which is outside the central area, but an easy walk to old town and other areas.

Outside Waverly Station

Our first stop was the Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile. The castle offers a glimpse into the history of the area, and is a great vantage point to view the city. The walk up to the castle is quite steep, but definitely worth it. But beware, this area is very crowded.

Edinburgh Castle on the Hill

View from Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle Cannon

Right outside the castle area, on the Royal Mile, is the Tartan Weaving Mill, which has floors of tartan woolen goods from many mills. It’s fun to walk through and appreciate all the beautiful items. Down in the basement is a weaving display which is interesting. People debate whether the prices are higher in this store than at other areas in the city, but I didn’t see much of a difference in price, and the variety was much greater than the smaller individual stores. I bought a scarf for myself and for a friend who was helping me hold down the fort at home. The Royal Mile was fun to walk down, but for me, once was enough. (Although I would have happily returned to the fudge shop). However, it’s fun to wander down the side streets and the old town area in general.

Not too far from the Royal Mile is the Writer’s Museum. Tucked away in Lady Stairs Close (alleyway), off the Haymarket, this museum has a collection of manuscripts, portraits, rare books, and personal objects to highlight the lives of three Scottish writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Lewis Stevenson. The museum is housed in a townhouse originally built in 1622 for Sir William Gray and Lady Gray. It is a tall narrow house with a great small circular staircase.

Writers Museum

For an interesting experience and a nice lunch, visit the National Museum of Scotland. This is a fascinating museum with lots of exhibits that are different from what I’ve seen in other museums. I especially appreciated the four story “Window on the World” exhibit in the Grand Gallery, which covers four stories open to the main floor. On one of the upper levels is a nice café with tables that overlook the exhibits.

National Museum of Scotland

Dovecot Studios (Infirmary Street) is an amazing tapestry and creative arts studio that operates in what was originally the Infirmary Street Baths, which were the first public baths in Edinburgh, dating back to 1885. The Dovecot Tapestry Studio occupies what used to be the old swimming pool. From the balcony cat walk around the studio, you can watch artists at work and tapestry classes in progress. There are also various exhibits throughout the facility.

Dovecot Studios

If you enjoy modern art, the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One and Two, is a fun place to visit. It is actually two separate buildings set in a sculpture park. There is a circular bus that runs between this museum, the National Portrait Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery if you want to see all three in one day.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

We spent an entire afternoon wandering around New Town which houses many of the city’s restaurants and hotels, and retains much of its neo-classical and Georgian period architecture. There are a lot of fun shops on Princes Street and George Street. Rose Street runs parallel to Princes and George Street and has a number of eateries and pubs. Friends recommended Hendersons Salad Table Vegetarian Restaurant on Hanover Street and it was excellent.

Rose Street – New Town

After three days of sightseeing, we returned back to Waverly Station for the train to London. I really enjoyed my time in Edinburgh and can’t wait to return in the future.

See future blog posts on the sights of London.

Train Travel – Through the Scottish Highlands and Then to London

By Pam Q.

On September 22, 2018

In Destinations, Lifestyle, Travel Tips

On my recent trip to Scotland and England, I took two longer train trips. The first was from Ft. William (end of the West Highland Way) in Scotland back to Edinburgh and the second was Edinburgh to London.

I fell in love with train travel when I was a kid. We didn’t have a car, and to visit relatives, we had to take the train. Traveling off the beaten path and watching the landscape go by gave me a glimpse into a world that wasn’t visible from the highway. To recapture that feeling, I try to include trains in my travel plans when it makes sense.

On the first journey, I had finished hiking the West Highland Way and was in Ft. William. The bus back to Glasgow or Edinburgh was a shorter and efficient option, but the train chugged through the very areas I had just hiked through. Throughout the hike, the trains were our frequent companion. Hikers go over the train tracks, under the train tracks, and along them in numerous locations on the trail. In other locations, you can see the train traversing the mountainside in the distance. To sit back and see the beautiful highlands and valleys through a different perspective made the decision to choose the train an easy one.

The train ride didn’t disappoint. The route meanders north for a bit and then slowly works its way through the highlands. There’s a day on the hike where for several hours you are walking along an old military road, high in the hills, above the tree line and you can’t see a living thing (except for a few other hikers) or any evidence of civilization for as far as the eye can see in all directions. When we went back through that area, imagine my surprise when the train slowed to a stop at a small station with absolutely nothing visible but a small building and a narrow vacant country road leading off from the station. A man got on the train. Where did he come from? How did he get there? What is like to live here? I would have liked to ask him those questions.

Coming out of the hills, we rode along beautiful Loch Lomond, where we had walked just days before and finally to the more populated areas. It was so nice to re-live this beautiful hike from a comfortable chair, without worrying about my footing. This was the first time I had taken a train through an area I had just hiked. To experience a beautiful area ‘up close’ for days and then to see it as a big picture was really amazing.

The second journey was from Edinburg to London. This was my first trip to England and if I had just flown to London, I would have missed the beautiful countryside and the small towns that lie outside the major cities. The train was crowded that day because an earlier train was cancelled, but it was still nice to sit back, eat my packed lunch (or you could have purchased lunch on the train), and see the sights.

There are a couple of tricks to traveling by train. First there often isn’t a lot of room for large luggage. In most cases, there’s a small luggage rack at one end of the car, but it is limited, and you might have to lift your luggage onto the shelf to get a space. There is a luggage storage area over the seats, but a bag that is U.S. carryon size is probably the largest bag that would fit. For many seats, there is a small amount of space under the seat for a small backpack or purse. If you have a large bag, and I did for both these train rides, try to get in line early so there’s a better chance you’ll find a place for your luggage if the train is crowded.

Although many trains have snacks or sometimes more for sale on the longer train rides, you might have to walk through several cars to get food and the selection is somewhat limited. I try to pick up lunch and snacks before I get on the train to avoid the hassle. Finally, just like on a plane, the temperature in the cabin is unpredictable. Dress in layers so you can remove a layer if it’s warm and carry a sweater or sweatshirt in case it’s cold.

A lot of times when we are traveling, we want to get to our destination as quickly as possible. But sometimes the journey itself can be an important part of the trip. If you want to see parts of a country outside of the tourist areas or the airports or the highways, consider taking the train and watching the scenery out the window.

Hiking the West Highland Way in Scotland

By Pam Q.

On September 3, 2018

In Destinations, Other

Top of Devil’s Staircase, Glencoe, Scotland

I’m a day hiker. Yes, I have all the backpacking gear and can occasionally be persuaded to use it, but nothing makes me happier after a good hike than a hot shower and a comfortable bed. However, day hiking for consecutive days on major trails requires long rides and complicated car spotting to make it happen.

A hybrid becoming increasingly popular (particularly in Europe) is hiking from B&B/Inn to B&B/Inn without a car. Although you can make these arrangements yourself, in some areas you can use services to find your lodging and/or transport your luggage, so you only hike with your day bag. Typically, the B&B/Inn will provide a full breakfast with other meals available in the area.

Anchorage Cottage – East Loch Lomondside, Rowardennen, Scotland

In late June I hiked the West Highland Way in Scotland over 9 consecutive days for a total of 96 miles. I used MacAdventures to find my lodging and transport my larger luggage. The lodging varied from 50-room Inns to small B & Bs to a self-contained cottage in a campground. Most were within a half mile of the trail and for the two that weren’t, the B & B owners picked me up at a local business. After a shower in my private bathroom, I was free to explore the small town, eat dinner, socialize with other guests, or simply read a book. The next morning, I woke up refreshed and ready for another day. My kind of hiking!

Bench at the start of the West Highland Way, Milngavie, Scotland

The West Highland Way starts out in Milngavie (near Glasgow) and ends in Ft. William. The trail winds through pastures and rolling hills, dense woods, along Loch Lomond, up into the magnificent highlands, and down to the valleys. Dotted along the trail are small towns with a handful of lodging and dining options. Some areas have small stores to replenish snack and lunch options, as well as ATMs and post offices. Several of the towns are on the bus or train line, which allows hikers to skip sections if they prefer not to hike the whole trail.

Bridge of Orchy, Scotland

Even though some days I was hiking with a friend or other people on the trail, much of the time I was alone with my thoughts and just soaking up the beautiful surroundings and amazing sense of peace. The second half of the hike takes you up into the highlands where I felt on top of the world and with the exception of a handful of other hikers, there were no houses, animals, people or roads for as far as the eye could see in any direction. The path in front of you and behind you just disappeared into the distance.

In the middle of the hike, we were joined on the trail by the ultramarathoners of the West Highland Way Race – a group of over 200 trail runners who were expected to complete all 96 miles in under 35 hours. They started at 1 am and the quickest finished just under 17 hours later. They were great fun to have on the trail, would occasional stop and talk for a few minutes, and seemed to appreciate our encouragement along the way. I marveled at how they could race up and down the areas I had so carefully and slowly picked my way through.

Cow Pasture Near Drymen, Scotland

Packing for a hike on the West Highland Way, with the variety of trail conditions and potential for cold and rainy weather, required me to pack more than I would normally pack. I needed full rain gear, extra socks, and clothing that would carry me from temperatures in the low 50s with frequent rain and blustery wind, to the high 80s with no escape from the bright sunshine.

View of Loch Lomond from Conic Hill, Stirling, Scotland

Multiple layers were the key. My Icebreaker 200 base layers, EMS Techwick long and short sleeve shirts, Bass fleece, and EMS Compass pants that roll up, provided me with plenty of options. Because the large bag was transported from lodging to lodging, I didn’t have to worry about the extra bulk and weight of the additional clothing.

My day pack, the Osprey Tempest 20L worked perfectly. It had enough room to carry my hiking essentials, along with water, food, and layers that were shed during the day. The inner zipped pocket worked well for carrying my passport and other valuables that had to stay with me at all times. The outer stretch pocket was perfect for keeping my raingear handy. I used the rain cover (even when it wasn’t raining) to keep everything contained and dry.

Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, Scotland

Long distance hiking offers the amazing opportunity to hike varied terrain, experience a number of spectacular views, and have the time to truly escape from the real world. But for the inexperienced hiker or the true day hiker at heart, hiking from B&B to B&B can bridge the gap between the multi-day backpacking trip and single-day hike with all the comforts of home.

Sculpture in Kinlochleven, Scotland

Travel and Packing Tips for Solo Female Travelers

Tag: Scotland

Three Days in Edinburgh After Hiking the West Highland Way

Train Travel – Through the Scottish Highlands and Then to London

Hiking the West Highland Way in Scotland