Soaring! - Minimalist Travel for the Over 60 Single Woman

Travel and Packing Tips for Solo Female Travelers

Safeguarding Your Valuables While Traveling

The more I travel, the more I’m exposed to situations where I need to be proactive about safeguarding my valuables. I typically travel with the following:

2 – 3 credit cards
2 debit cards
Regular iphone
UK cell phone
US cash
Local currency
Passport (or passport card)
US driver’s license
Metro card for the area
Keys
Miscellaneous other items

The loss of any of these items would be disruptive and potentially costly. For a recent trip, I had to carry all my valuables, at all times, in a variety of circumstances. The challenge is of course, to separate items, but also carry them in places that are as safe as possible from pickpockets and other thieves. Here are some of the items I use.

Scottevest – This vest with multiple inside pockets and some zipped outside pockets is my ‘go to’ for traveling. I can fit everything I need to protect in the pockets. When the vest is zipped up, I’m comfortable that my valuables are well protected. But the vest has some downsides to consider. When loaded, the vest becomes bulky, heavy, and quite warm. It also puts all my valuables in one place and the look of it screams ‘tourist’. So, while the Scottevest is a great option, I often add some type of on-body pouch to hold some of the valuables and employ other alternatives when I choose not to use the vest. What I do miss when not wearing the vest is the cell phone pocket at chest height inside the vest that allows me to pull out the cell phone without exposing the rest of my valuables.

PacSafe Neck Pouch – This pouch is on an adjustable strap that loops around the neck and either hangs in front or on the side of the body or tucks into the front of the pants. It holds a passport and cash/cards and is relatively comfortable. The downside is during warm weather the strap around the neck is visible, announcing to the world that you’re carrying a hidden pouch. In my opinion, this works best with turtlenecks or a scarf that covers the strap.

PacSafe Bra Stash – I’ve avoided these in the past, because frankly I didn’t think I had enough to contain anything. But this bra stash (and others like it) have a strap that goes around either the bra itself or the bra strap before you tuck it in, so it seems more secure. Some have metal clasps or snaps, so I’m not sure what happens with these at security. This one has plastic parts.

 

Stashbandz Belt – This is an interesting product that was developed for runners and for people who need to carry certain medical equipment on their person. It’s a stretchy 4-inch belt that sits between the navel and mid hip. It has two pockets in front (one zipped) and two in back. It carries cell phone, keys, wallet, money, etc. – although carrying all of them at the same time might be a bit bulky. I’ve just purchased this and haven’t given it a good test, but the reviews are mostly positive.

Money Belt – In the past I’ve used a money belt (which for many people is a good alternative), but because I tend to have a gap in the waist of my pants, I have trouble keeping the belt sufficiently hidden. Money belts often have enough room to hold a passport plus cards and cash. Just make sure you find one that fits you properly and your clothing accommodates it.

High Ankle or Mid-calf Socks – Simply put folded money down the side of the sock far enough that it won’t pop out. This won’t work with quarter socks or shorter ankle socks, but if the socks are long enough, it’s worked well for me. Some companies sell socks with zippered pockets. I haven’t use these socks, but they might be fine.

Cell Phone Neck Carrier – This product solves the problem of keeping the cell phone handy, but not in your pocket. I find this works best under a jacket, so it’s not exposed. There are lots of different styles (some waterproof), but I use the PacSafe Neck Pouch (above) when I want this option. My iphone 6, with case, just fits.

PacSafe Personal Safe – This item is too bulky to pack in a suitcase when traveling light, but is a great addition when on a road trip or renting a cottage, etc. It’s big enough to hold a tablet and other items. The bag locks and you run a cable around a pipe in the bathroom or other permanent object to secure the bag to the object. This works great in places where there is no safe and you don’t want to take all your valuables with you.

We’ve all seen people reaching into their hidden stashes to get cash and credit cards when they want to pay for something. This really defeats the purpose of hiding valuables. Instead carry a small amount of cash and a credit card in a front pocket (preferably a zippered pocket) and use this to pay for purchases. If you need to replenish the cash, find a restroom or someplace where you can do so discretely. I also carry a small decoy wallet with a $20 bill (or equivalent in local currency) and an expired/closed credit card to hand over if I am accosted. It’s cheap insurance and reports are that this technique will satisfy the thief in most cases.

Many women keep their valuables in their cross-body bag or small backpack. In general, I don’t keep valuables in these bags, but rather use them to hold my sightseeing information, water bottle, snacks, and personal items. The only money I carry in my bag is my change purse in those areas where you collect a lot of change (UK, EU). Particularly when traveling solo, I feel these bags could be an easy target.

Especially when in high tourist areas, its important to think about what you’re carrying and whether you are telegraphing where your valuables might be. I’d rather be sightseeing than trying to deal with stolen property or the personal impact of being a victim. A little planning and the right options for stashing valuables can go a long way in avoiding these issues.

Provincetown for Mother’s Day

I love Provincetown!  (Cape Cod, MA)    I started going to the Cape from time to time when I was a kid and fell in love with Provincetown when I went there for my honeymoon in 1974. Affectionately known as P-town, this coastal resort town, located at the very tip of the ‘hook’ in Massachusetts, transforms each summer into a busy, fun, welcoming, and arty community.

For the past several years, two of my sons and my son-in-law run the Ragnar Relay, that starts in Hull, MA on Friday morning and ends 200 miles later in Provincetown on Saturday afternoon. My daughter-in-law, grandchildren and I join the Ragnar festivities and then we all have a quieter Mother’s Day celebration.

The beauty of coming off season allows us to enjoy the Provincetown experience without the crowds. Most shops and restaurants are open and there’s plenty of opportunity to easily get a table at your favorite restaurant or wander casually through the varied shops.

This time I rented a great condo in the West End with my son, daughter-in-law and grandchildren, but my favorite place to stay is the 8 Dyer Hotel, a wonderful 7 room, adults only hotel. If you are looking for a place to unwind or for a romantic get-away, this is the place. Their included breakfast is amazing. My son, son-in-law, and rest of their Ragnar team stayed there as usual. I’m jealous!

The owners also own a great restaurant that’s a combination breakfast place and tacqueria called Yolqueria. The food is excellent.

There’s no shortage of terrific restaurants in Provincetown. One of my other favorites is Ciro and Sal’s, which is has wonderful Italian Food. I went there for the first time in 1974 and have never been disappointed. If you’re looking for traditional seafood and Portuguese fare, try the Lobster Pot. They also have lots of gluten free options, if you must eat gluten free like me.

Among the many casual dining options with gluten free selections is Bubala’s by the Bay. If it’s nice, sit out on the patio. After the Ragnar race, the runners of my family’s team head to Big Daddy’s Burritos in the Aquarium Marketplace Food Court. They serve great burritos and tacos, and accommodate gluten free diners.

While you are in the Aquarium Marketplace, check out the Human Rights Campaign (HRC) Store where you can purchase merchandise supporting the HRC mission. Provincetown is known for its celebration of gay and lesbian culture and is a vacation destination for many LGBTQ individuals.

When I’m in Provincetown, I tend to go for long walks, fueled in part by fudge from the Provincetown Fudge Factory and the occasional bowl of ice cream. Once you get out of the commercial area, there are lots of places to walk on the beach or sit and watch the water. You’ll need a sweater because the ocean winds are cool.

In the spring, there are tulips everywhere and fun things to look at. This is one of my favorite yards to walk by. Many of the properties have fun artwork and colorful accents.

Next time you are looking for a low-key place to travel with friends, family, or just by yourself, think about Provincetown off season. Plus, it’s a great place to spend Mother’s Day.

A Four Day Taste of New York City

So, what do you do when a family member goes to a conference in New York City for 4 days and offers you the second bed in the room for free?  Well, you hop Metro North to Grand Central Station. Even though it was late January (2017), with warm clothes and boots, NYC is still a great place to explore. At the time I came in, it was just as easy to walk to the hotel and with my backpack suitcase, I didn’t have to worry about rolling my luggage.

We stayed in the Hilton Hotel near Times Square – much nicer than my usual hostel digs. The first night I roamed around Times Square and had dinner with my family member at Friedman’s near Penn Station. If you have to eat gluten free, Friedman’s is a great find. There are several locations, each with a different menu, and they are a real safe haven for people with celiac disease. The food is so good, even those who don’t need to eat gluten free will love it.

The next day, it was snowing, and I hopped the nearby subway for the trek down to the Financial District to go to the 9/11 Memorial. Living in Connecticut, with its close proximity to New York, 9/11 was an emotional event for me, and I wanted to spend time at the Memorial and the Museum. I couldn’t see much of the Memorial because of the snow, but the Museum was excellent and well worth the time.

In the afternoon, I stopped by Chelsea Market. I love large indoor and outdoor food markets and this one doesn’t disappoint. I picked up something for dinner and breakfast the next morning and had a late lunch at the Friedman’s in Chelsea Market.

The third day was sunny and relatively warm (from a winter in NYC perspective). I took the subway to 81st street and Central Park West and walked across Central Park to the Metropolitan Museum of Art on 5th Avenue. The park is beautiful in any season and there were no shortage of walkers, runners, and bikers on the trails. The Metropolitan Museum of Art is a classic NYC museum. They recently moved to a mandatory fee for people who are not New York residents, but don’t let that stop you – it’s worth it.

I walked home along 5th Avenue until 57th Street and then up to 7th to go to Fresh & Co to pick up dinner. They have a good variety of organic seasonal food with some gluten free options. It’s a good place to pick up gluten free muffins for breakfast as well.

If you are interested in snagging some discounted same day tickets for Broadway, stop at the TKTS Times Square Booth. The available shows are listed online and you can purchase them at the booth on a first come, first served basis. The booth is only open certain hours and you may need to wait in line when you get there.

The morning of my last day, I walked a couple of blocks to the Museum of Modern Art. I always like looking at modern art, although I can’t say I understand much of it. It was fun to go through. In the afternoon, I walked back to Grand Central Station for the train to CT. Grand Central is a destination in itself. The architecture is amazing, and it has a great food market downstairs. I enjoyed roaming around while I waited for my train.

For a reasonable budget (no lodging), I spent 4 days in the city visiting museums, walking around, and eating good food. If you are going to share a room with someone (especially if you aren’t paying for it), make sure you are a considerate guest. Stay out of the way when they are trying to get out in the morning and let them dictate when the lights go out at night. Respect that they may need some quiet working time, so bring a book or other quiet activity. Who knows, you might get invited back the next time they are in the city.

Italy Part 5 – Highlights of Venice

 

 

After the crazy traffic in Rome and the hustle and bustle of Florence, the charm of the canals and the lack of vehicular traffic in Venice was a welcome change. We stayed at the Hotel Giorgione near the Ca’d’Oro vaporetto stop and easy walking distance to Realto and other areas.

The churches and the art were very different from what we had seen in Rome and Florence.  From my novice art perspective, I thought much of it was dark and heavy. A good example is the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, which is a lay confraternity, that highlights the works of Tintoretto, among others.

Scuola Grande di San Rocco

 

Interior of Scuola Grande di San Rocco

 

Ceiling

 

Lights and Chairs – Main Floor

Another church we visited was the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, which is a Franciscan cathedral.  The exterior is plain, but the interior has artworks from a number of different artists, as well as various tombs.  The highlight for me was the painting above the altar called the Assumption of the Virgin by Titian.

Frari Cathedral interior – see the painting peeking through the altar partition.

 

The Assumption of the Virgin by Titian (1518)

You can’t go to Venice without taking a gondola ride.  Traveling down the small canals and then into the Grand Canal in a gondola gives you a whole different perspective of the city.  The weather was quite cloudy, but still pleasant on the water.

Under a bridge

 

 

Entry door on the canal

Entering the Grand Canal

 

In the Grand Canal

 

In the Grand Canal

One of the most crowded areas was Piazza San Marco.  Take the time to go into the Basilica di San Marco.  No pictures are allowed, but note the altar piece.  The front is quite plain, but the back side, which can be rotated to face out, is a magnificent jeweled and gold piece.  There’s a story behind it, but I won’t ruin the surprise for you.

Basilica di San Marco

 

The Dock at San Marco

The Doge’s Palace is interesting.  It is the residence of the Doge, but also includes various institutional chambers, prison cells, and a wonderful balcony that overlooks the piazza and gives a great view of the St. Mark’s Clock Tower.  It’s quite a show then the clock rings, so don’t miss it.

The Square from the balcony of the Doge’s Palace

 

The Clock Tower from the balcony of the Doge’s Palace

 

One of the lesser known museums we visited was the Guggeneheim Collection.  This is the collection of Peggy Guggeneheim that resides in what was her home in Venice.  In addition, the exhibits include several other acquisitions.  It features artists in Cubism, Futurism, Metaphysical Painting, and American Abstract Expressionism, among others.

Let’s take a pictorial walk around Venice.

First glimpse of Venice from the train station

 

One of the many bridges

 

Masks

 

More Masks

 

Even more masks

 

Canal

 

Fire Department

 

Realto Market

 

Realto Market

 

Beautiful Glass

 

Everything comes in by boat

 

Wooden Bridge

 

One of the highlights of my trip was the afternoon I spent in Burano with two friends.  Far removed from the crowds of Venice, this laid back island was not only beautiful with all its brilliant colors,  but a great place to recharge.

Bicycle in Burano

 

Burano

 

Colorful houses – Burano

 

Burano – Near the ice cream shop

 

Burano

Water Taxi to the airport and back to reality!

Water taxi back to the airport (early morning)

Part 4 – Florence – Uffizi, Basilica di San Lorenzo, San Lorenzo Market, Galileo Museum and the View from St. Michaels

This fall I took a great trip to Rome, Florence, and Venice. This is part 4 covering Florence. Part 5 will show the highlights of Venice.

The Uffizi Gallery has so many wonderful pieces, we needed a comprehensive lecture on Renaissance art to help us understand what we were going to see. This is one place to brave the long lines and exhausting overload of art. It is definitely worth it. I’ll confess that I’ve never studied art history, but armed with our knowledge from the lecture and accompanied by two others on our tour who knew a lot more than I did, I was excited that even I could see some of the key points.

The religious works start out very one dimensional with stern faces and unnatural features. Many times, each aspect of the work is in it’s own ornate fame. Over time, the pictures add dimension and proportion, and become much more life-like. You begin to see emotion.

The Ognissanti Madona by Giotto (1310)

Annunciation by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1303)

 

La Primavera by Botticelli (1477)

 

The Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1482)

One of my favorite pictures is this one by Michelangelo. This is the only Michelangelo painting in Florence.  Unlike so many of the paintings, this work appears to have the holy family is in a casual public setting  – except perhaps for the nude males in the background.

Doni Tondo by Michelangelo (1506)

Basilica di San Lorenzo was a surprise for me. The exterior of this church is very plain, but the inside is beautiful and much simpler than many of the churches we saw. The Basilica, partially built under the direction of Filippo Brunelleschi is the burial place of the principal members of the Medici family.  Attached is a little museum with some interesting artifacts.

Basilica di San Lorenzo exterior

Basilica di San Lorenzo interior

 

A couple of blocks away is the San Lorenzo Market which is an indoor market, similar to the indoor markets in many major U.S. cities. On the upper floor are restaurants where you can get a meal or a snack.  The area surrounding the market is also home to a large street market with many leather and other vendors.

San Lorenzo Market

If you like science and instruments, the Galileo Museum (located near the Arno River) is a nice way to spend a couple of hours. The museum contains one of the major collections of scientific instruments primarily from the two dynasties that ruled Florence – the Medici and the House of Lorraine. The exhibits cover astonomy, navigation, globes and maps, warfare, medicine, mechanics, among others. A highlight of the museum is the exhibit of the instruments built by Galileo.

If you cross the Arno River and go to the other side, you can climb the many steps up to the Piazzale Michelangelo (St. Michaels) for a stunning view of the city. On the way to get to the starting point of the hike up the hill, you have to pass through an opening in the ancient wall of the City of Florence. From the top you can trace a large part of the wall as it snakes across the landscape. Of course, you will have no trouble finding the Duomo from your perch.

Opening in the wall for cars and people

 

The wall from Piazzale Michelangelo

 

The view from Piazzale Michelangelo

 

Another view from the Piazzale Michelangelo

Next stop – Venice (Part 5 of my trip to Italy).

Part 3 – Florence – Winery, Accademia, Duomo, Food, Gelato, and Leather

This fall I took a great trip to Rome, Florence, and Venice. This is part 3 covering Florence. Future posts include more highlights of Florence and Venice.

On the way to Florence, we stopped for lunch at the Castel Vicchiomaggio winery in the Chianti region of Tuscany. High on the top of a hill, the views were amazing, and the wine was to die for!  Eventually, we all made it back onto the bus and continued on to Florence. We stayed at the Hotel Cavour, which was a modern hotel within easy walking distance of all the attractions.

The view from the winery

 

The view from the winery

 

Our first tour in Florence was the Accademia, home to Michelangelo’s sculpture, The Statue of the David (1504). The Accademia has a lot of historical pieces and is a bit low key, until you turn the corner and at the far end of the room, with dramatic lighting and a raised ceiling, is the Statue of the David.

The Statue of the David

 

The Statue of the David

 

The Statue of the David

The word magnificent doesn’t do it justice. Carved from one piece of white marble, Michelangelo was the third sculptor to work on the piece. It was originally commissioned by the Opera del Duomo for the Cathedral of Florence (the Duomo) to be part of a group of sculptures that was to decorate the building 40 feet in the air. This explains why the statue is 14 feet tall and certain features are outsized to support the structure and be seen from a distance.

Declaring the work too perfect to be high up on the Cathedral, it was on display outdoors in the Piazza della Signora until 1873, when it was moved to the Accademia. The exhibit also has some interesting unfinished pieces by Michelangelo, which give a perspective on how the artist approached his work.

The next day we toured the Baptistery, Duomo Cathedral, Duomo Museum, and the Workshop. The Duomo (also known as the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore) was built in the 13th and 14th century adjacent to the smaller church called the Baptistery. The famous dome, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi was added in the 15th century. The interior, especially the artwork in the dome is beautiful. It seemed wherever you went in Florence, you had a glimpse of the Duomo.

The Baptistry

 

Ceiling in the Baptistry

 

The Duomo

Ceiling in the Duomo Dome

Ceiling in the Duomo Dome

 

Glimpses of the Duomo are everywhere.

The Duomo Museum has a wonderful collection of art including works of Michelangelo, Luca della Robbia, and Donatello. It is definitely worth a visit. My favorite part of the museum was the workshop where the beautiful marble columns and other marble components of the Duomo are repaired. A man whose father and grandfather worked in the workshop before him showed us the tools and the process of repairing a marble column. They still use the same tools their forefathers used (with the addition of a couple of modern power tools), but also the same tools the sculptors used when creating their masterpieces.

Florence is not just about art. The food is incredible. For me the most exciting food discoveries were the GROM gelato place and the Starbene Gold Bakery. Both were 100% gluten free, which is magic to the ears of someone with celiac disease, who can’t have a speck of gluten or risk sickness. Let’s just say the woman who ran the bakery and I become fast friends.

Starbene Gold

Florence is known for its leather shops and they are everywhere, both in shops and street vendors. Some are good quality and others are not as good. Our tour guide told us about the leather school (Scuola del Cuoio) that is located on the grounds of the Franciscan Monastery of Santa Croce. After World War II, one of the friars decided to start the school to pass on leather skills to orphaned children so they would have a way to support themselves. Today the students are underprivileged residents of Florence. If you are looking for leather goods, this is the place to go. Not only can you watch the goods being made, but the craftsmanship is beautiful. Here are some pictures from the cases along with a picture of the small wallet I purchased.

See Part 4 for more on Florence and Part 5 for Venice.

Italy – Part 2 – The Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica, and Local Sites

 

This fall I took a great trip to Rome, Florence, and Venice. This is Part 2 covering more sites in Rome. Future posts include Florence and Venice.

One of the highlights of my time in Rome was the visit to the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. Our group had a private tour after hours and it was amazing! There were just 24 of us, including our terrific guide. The museum was deserted except for a handful of security guards, and eerily quiet. We took a leisurely tour of the museum as our guide discussed the history and pointed out interesting aspects of the artworks. Here are some scenes.

 

Fresco at the Vatican Museum

 

Ceiling at the Vatican Museum Gallery of Maps

 

Vatican Museum

 

Gallery of Maps Vatican Museum – Paintings of topographical maps based on drawings by Ignazio Danti

The highlight of the tour was the 45 minutes we spent in the Sistine Chapel. It was dark outside and we had the Chapel to ourselves. The guard unexpectedly allowed us to take pictures without flash. I just had my iphone, but was able to get some reasonably good shots despite the low lighting. Michelangelo worked on the ceiling from 1508-12.

Creation of Adam – Sistine Chapel

 

Downfall of Adam and Eve and Expulsion from the Garden – Sistine Chapel

 

The Prophet Isaiah – Sistine Chapel

This is the view from the Pope’s entrance. The paintings on the ceiling get progressively larger as they move further from the entrance. Some say the effect was deliberate so that all the pictures would look the same size to the Pope, but others say that Michelangelo was being pressured to finish and the last pictures were larger and with less detail in response to this demand. Your guess is as good as mine, but I’m inclined to go with the second explanation after looking at the incredible detail in the early pictures, and the obvious lack of detail in some of the later ones.

Sistine Chapel Ceiling from Pope’s Entrance

Painted on the altar end of the chapel is Michelangelo’s fresco called The Last Judgment (1534-1541).

The Last Judgment – Sistine Chapel

 

Detail – The Last Judgment – Sistine Chapel

The next day I visited St. Peter’s Basilica with some friends from the group. Right inside St. Peter’s is Michelangelo’s Pietà (1498-99). It’s hard to get a good picture because of the protective glass. It’s a beautiful sculpture. Although quite crowded, we were able to see many parts of the basilica.  Despite the basilica’s grandeur, I found it to be wonderfully serene.

Pieta – Michelangelo – St. Peter’s

 

St. Peter’s Basilica

 

Altar – St. Peter’s

 

Altar of Transfiguration – Raphael (1520) – St. Peter’s

 

St. Peter’s Basilica

 

St. Peter’s Basilica

On the walk back from St. Peter’s to our hotel, we stopped at the Local Outdoor Market.  The market contained a bounty of fresh produce and fruits, meats, cheeses, liquors, spices, clothing, crafts, flowers, and much more.

Local Market – Rome

 

Local Market – Rome

 

Off to Florence and Venice!

Rome Part 1 – Colosseum, Forum, Capitoline Museum, Borghese Gallery

Roman Forum

This fall, for my first trip to Italy, I took a Road Scholar tour to Rome, Florence, and Venice. I typically travel on my own, but I wanted to focus on the art and the architecture, and I knew I didn’t have enough background to do it justice. To have experts leading the tours and giving us the background on what we were seeing was amazing.

In Rome, we stayed at the Hotel Tiziano. What a great location! No more than a 30-minute walk to most of the places we wanted to see, but right on the bus line and a block from the taxi stand if you wanted to ride. There were also plenty of great restaurants in the area, as well as small grocery stores and other shops. The hotel has an old world feel, but with everything we needed.

Our first stop was the Colosseum and the Forum. As we approached the Colosseum, I was overwhelmed by the sense of history that was everywhere we went in Rome, and especially this site which was an important part of Roman life. Walking around the site, with the help of our terrific tour guide, I could imagine the activities (many horribly gruesome) that were held there. But I also marveled at the advancement of the construction from the series of elevators that carried animals from the underground areas to the main arena, to running water toilets, and the areas for food and other concessions.

Colosseum

Interior of the Colosseum. See the remains of the elevator shafts in the center.

Between the Colosseum and the Forum is the Arch of Constantine, one of three surviving arches on the site commemorating significant military victories. The carvings on these arches is amazing especially considering the Arch was erected in 315 CE.

Arch of Constantine

The Forum was much larger than I thought it would be. There are ruins of many building and meeting areas. I can see that it was the epicenter of Roman lives at the time with areas for a marketplace, government offices, political events, and many other aspects of Roman history.

Roman Forum from the Capitoline Museum

Roman Forum from the Capitoline Museum

Adjacent to the Roman Forum is the Capitoline Museum. The collection dates back to 1471 and the focus of the exhibits are sculptures and other art closely linked to the city of Rome.  The first picture is the Statue of the Capitoline Gaul which depicts a wounded Gaul in the last moments before succumbing to his wounds. This is a very moving piece that is so different from the typical victorious and triumphant soldier. The Great Hall (second picture) contains a number of works of Greek sculptures. The ancient Romans had a great fascination with Greek art and many Roman artists incorporated Greek styles into their own works. Finally, the third picture shows busts of the ancient Roman and Greek philosophers.

The Capitoline Gaul – Capitoline Museum

Great Hall – Capitoline Museum

Hall of the Philosophers – Capitoline Museum

The Borghese Gallery, adjacent to the Villa Borghese and its beautiful grounds that are now a park, is a must see.  It is the gallery of Cardinal Scipione Borghese (nephew of Pope Paul V)  that was collected in the fifteen and sixteen hundreds.  It highlights works from Caravaggio and Bernini, with works from other renowned artists to include Tiziano, Raphael, Rubens, Botticelli, and Canovas.  Some of my favorites were David, Apollo and Daphne, Rape of Proserpina, and Aeneas, Anchises and Ascanius, all by Bernini.

David – by Bernini -1623-24

Apollo and Daphne – by Bernini – 1622-25

Rape of Proserpina – by Bernini – 1621-22

Aeneas, Anchises, and Ascanius – by Bernini – 1619

 

See Rome – Part 2 for the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, St. Peters Basilica, and Local Sites.

Graffiti in Florence

I’ll admit that I’m not much of a fan of graffiti, but I do understand that the concept of graffiti dates back to historic times and is often an expression of social and political messages. While some communities commission graffiti artists to cover sides of buildings and fences with their artwork, some of the graffiti we see in the U.S. today is not as welcome.

That said, I was fascinated by the graffiti in Florence, Italy that seemed to my uneducated eye to be more artistic and contained, albeit still defacing the buildings. I thought I’d share some of it with you.

Traveling With Food Allergies

I have Celiac Disease and cannot eat anything with gluten (primarily wheat and wheat based products) without getting quite ill. I also have friends with serious allergies to shellfish and nuts. It’s hard enough to eat safely in your home area with the ability to ask questions in your primary language, but traveling, especially to areas where I’m unable to understand the menu and ask questions in English, can be a challenge.

Fortunately, the internet has a plethora of information to help people with food allergies when traveling. But, it is important for you to be an advocate for yourself, asking necessary questions and making informed decisions about whether you consider the food safe to eat for your dietary issue.

I primarily travel independently, but recently took a trip to Italy with Road Scholar. Road Scholar does a good job of letting you know if they can accommodate for your particular issue, and made arrangements ahead of time for the meals they provided. For the other meals, I turned to the internet to get some guidance.

A simple google search on ‘how to eat gluten free in Italy’ yielded a number of helpful sources. One that I have used before is Celiac Travel . They have Gluten Free Restaurant Cards for many different countries. The cards explain (in the local language) what people with celiac can and can’t eat. You show the card to the server and often they will bring the card to the chef for guidance. The cards are free (with a request for a voluntary donation). Often, useful forums will pop up in the search that will highlight both good and bad experiences with specific restaurants regarding your particular allergy.

Another helpful option is to use Google Translate to translate the menu to English (or another language). For example, the translation might show that the item is breaded and thus should be avoided. Many times, the menu appears online and you can do some advance planning before you get to the restaurant.

My internet search also showed that Italians in general are quite knowledgeable about Celiac disease and many restaurants have undergone training in proper accommodation. For example, in Italy, many restaurants had gluten free pasta that they cooked in individual portions in water separate from the regular pasta. I soon discovered the GROM chain of gelato where I could eat gelato to my heart’s content without concern about cross contamination.

Regardless of your food allergy, it is important to determine what might be your ‘go to’ meals if you have difficulty finding meals on the menu that accommodate your needs to your satisfaction. For me, grilled chicken on a salad without dressing, a fruit and cheese plate, or plain meat and vegetables are usually reasonable alternatives.  Many places I’ve traveled also have a dedicated gluten free/allergy free bakery, where sometimes you can find savory items in addition to sweets.

Restaurant owners, chefs, and servers generally want you to have a good experience at their restaurant. Many chefs are well educated in food allergy accommodations. By doing some advance research and making a list of the items you know you can eat (and not eat), you should be able to find something you can eat in a restaurant. If you can’t, politely excuse yourself and try another restaurant.

In many locations, people have access to local grocery stores and other sources of allergy safe foods if they have concern about restaurant meals. I discovered that in Italy,  the local pharmacies stock gluten free food in addition to the grocery store, because Celiac Disease is a medical condition. In addition, many of the open air markets have fruit, vegetables, and other allergy safe food.

Armed with knowledge about your condition, the ability to translate the menu (or request a menu in your primary language), the willingness to ask questions of the server and chef, some guidance on the ingredients commonly found in the local cuisine, and some flexibility to substitute known safe foods, travelers with food allergies can travel in many counties and eat in selected restaurants with confidence.

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