Travel and Packing Tips for Solo Female Travelers

Category: Destinations

A Four Day Taste of New York City

So, what do you do when a family member goes to a conference in New York City for 4 days and offers you the second bed in the room for free?  Well, you hop Metro North to Grand Central Station. Even though it was late January (2017), with warm clothes and boots, NYC is still a great place to explore. At the time I came in, it was just as easy to walk to the hotel and with my backpack suitcase, I didn’t have to worry about rolling my luggage.

We stayed in the Hilton Hotel near Times Square – much nicer than my usual hostel digs. The first night I roamed around Times Square and had dinner with my family member at Friedman’s near Penn Station. If you have to eat gluten free, Friedman’s is a great find. There are several locations, each with a different menu, and they are a real safe haven for people with celiac disease. The food is so good, even those who don’t need to eat gluten free will love it.

The next day, it was snowing, and I hopped the nearby subway for the trek down to the Financial District to go to the 9/11 Memorial. Living in Connecticut, with its close proximity to New York, 9/11 was an emotional event for me, and I wanted to spend time at the Memorial and the Museum. I couldn’t see much of the Memorial because of the snow, but the Museum was excellent and well worth the time.

In the afternoon, I stopped by Chelsea Market. I love large indoor and outdoor food markets and this one doesn’t disappoint. I picked up something for dinner and breakfast the next morning and had a late lunch at the Friedman’s in Chelsea Market.

The third day was sunny and relatively warm (from a winter in NYC perspective). I took the subway to 81st street and Central Park West and walked across Central Park to the Metropolitan Museum of Art on 5th Avenue. The park is beautiful in any season and there were no shortage of walkers, runners, and bikers on the trails. The Metropolitan Museum of Art is a classic NYC museum. They recently moved to a mandatory fee for people who are not New York residents, but don’t let that stop you – it’s worth it.

I walked home along 5th Avenue until 57th Street and then up to 7th to go to Fresh & Co to pick up dinner. They have a good variety of organic seasonal food with some gluten free options. It’s a good place to pick up gluten free muffins for breakfast as well.

If you are interested in snagging some discounted same day tickets for Broadway, stop at the TKTS Times Square Booth. The available shows are listed online and you can purchase them at the booth on a first come, first served basis. The booth is only open certain hours and you may need to wait in line when you get there.

The morning of my last day, I walked a couple of blocks to the Museum of Modern Art. I always like looking at modern art, although I can’t say I understand much of it. It was fun to go through. In the afternoon, I walked back to Grand Central Station for the train to CT. Grand Central is a destination in itself. The architecture is amazing, and it has a great food market downstairs. I enjoyed roaming around while I waited for my train.

For a reasonable budget (no lodging), I spent 4 days in the city visiting museums, walking around, and eating good food. If you are going to share a room with someone (especially if you aren’t paying for it), make sure you are a considerate guest. Stay out of the way when they are trying to get out in the morning and let them dictate when the lights go out at night. Respect that they may need some quiet working time, so bring a book or other quiet activity. Who knows, you might get invited back the next time they are in the city.

Italy Part 5 – Highlights of Venice

 

 

After the crazy traffic in Rome and the hustle and bustle of Florence, the charm of the canals and the lack of vehicular traffic in Venice was a welcome change. We stayed at the Hotel Giorgione near the Ca’d’Oro vaporetto stop and easy walking distance to Realto and other areas.

The churches and the art were very different from what we had seen in Rome and Florence.  From my novice art perspective, I thought much of it was dark and heavy. A good example is the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, which is a lay confraternity, that highlights the works of Tintoretto, among others.

Scuola Grande di San Rocco

 

Interior of Scuola Grande di San Rocco

 

Ceiling

 

Lights and Chairs – Main Floor

Another church we visited was the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, which is a Franciscan cathedral.  The exterior is plain, but the interior has artworks from a number of different artists, as well as various tombs.  The highlight for me was the painting above the altar called the Assumption of the Virgin by Titian.

Frari Cathedral interior – see the painting peeking through the altar partition.

 

The Assumption of the Virgin by Titian (1518)

You can’t go to Venice without taking a gondola ride.  Traveling down the small canals and then into the Grand Canal in a gondola gives you a whole different perspective of the city.  The weather was quite cloudy, but still pleasant on the water.

Under a bridge

 

 

Entry door on the canal

Entering the Grand Canal

 

In the Grand Canal

 

In the Grand Canal

One of the most crowded areas was Piazza San Marco.  Take the time to go into the Basilica di San Marco.  No pictures are allowed, but note the altar piece.  The front is quite plain, but the back side, which can be rotated to face out, is a magnificent jeweled and gold piece.  There’s a story behind it, but I won’t ruin the surprise for you.

Basilica di San Marco

 

The Dock at San Marco

The Doge’s Palace is interesting.  It is the residence of the Doge, but also includes various institutional chambers, prison cells, and a wonderful balcony that overlooks the piazza and gives a great view of the St. Mark’s Clock Tower.  It’s quite a show then the clock rings, so don’t miss it.

The Square from the balcony of the Doge’s Palace

 

The Clock Tower from the balcony of the Doge’s Palace

 

One of the lesser known museums we visited was the Guggeneheim Collection.  This is the collection of Peggy Guggeneheim that resides in what was her home in Venice.  In addition, the exhibits include several other acquisitions.  It features artists in Cubism, Futurism, Metaphysical Painting, and American Abstract Expressionism, among others.

Let’s take a pictorial walk around Venice.

First glimpse of Venice from the train station

 

One of the many bridges

 

Masks

 

More Masks

 

Even more masks

 

Canal

 

Fire Department

 

Realto Market

 

Realto Market

 

Beautiful Glass

 

Everything comes in by boat

 

Wooden Bridge

 

One of the highlights of my trip was the afternoon I spent in Burano with two friends.  Far removed from the crowds of Venice, this laid back island was not only beautiful with all its brilliant colors,  but a great place to recharge.

Bicycle in Burano

 

Burano

 

Colorful houses – Burano

 

Burano – Near the ice cream shop

 

Burano

Water Taxi to the airport and back to reality!

Water taxi back to the airport (early morning)

Part 4 – Florence – Uffizi, Basilica di San Lorenzo, San Lorenzo Market, Galileo Museum and the View from St. Michaels

This fall I took a great trip to Rome, Florence, and Venice. This is part 4 covering Florence. Part 5 will show the highlights of Venice.

The Uffizi Gallery has so many wonderful pieces, we needed a comprehensive lecture on Renaissance art to help us understand what we were going to see. This is one place to brave the long lines and exhausting overload of art. It is definitely worth it. I’ll confess that I’ve never studied art history, but armed with our knowledge from the lecture and accompanied by two others on our tour who knew a lot more than I did, I was excited that even I could see some of the key points.

The religious works start out very one dimensional with stern faces and unnatural features. Many times, each aspect of the work is in it’s own ornate fame. Over time, the pictures add dimension and proportion, and become much more life-like. You begin to see emotion.

The Ognissanti Madona by Giotto (1310)

Annunciation by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1303)

 

La Primavera by Botticelli (1477)

 

The Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1482)

One of my favorite pictures is this one by Michelangelo. This is the only Michelangelo painting in Florence.  Unlike so many of the paintings, this work appears to have the holy family is in a casual public setting  – except perhaps for the nude males in the background.

Doni Tondo by Michelangelo (1506)

Basilica di San Lorenzo was a surprise for me. The exterior of this church is very plain, but the inside is beautiful and much simpler than many of the churches we saw. The Basilica, partially built under the direction of Filippo Brunelleschi is the burial place of the principal members of the Medici family.  Attached is a little museum with some interesting artifacts.

Basilica di San Lorenzo exterior

Basilica di San Lorenzo interior

 

A couple of blocks away is the San Lorenzo Market which is an indoor market, similar to the indoor markets in many major U.S. cities. On the upper floor are restaurants where you can get a meal or a snack.  The area surrounding the market is also home to a large street market with many leather and other vendors.

San Lorenzo Market

If you like science and instruments, the Galileo Museum (located near the Arno River) is a nice way to spend a couple of hours. The museum contains one of the major collections of scientific instruments primarily from the two dynasties that ruled Florence – the Medici and the House of Lorraine. The exhibits cover astonomy, navigation, globes and maps, warfare, medicine, mechanics, among others. A highlight of the museum is the exhibit of the instruments built by Galileo.

If you cross the Arno River and go to the other side, you can climb the many steps up to the Piazzale Michelangelo (St. Michaels) for a stunning view of the city. On the way to get to the starting point of the hike up the hill, you have to pass through an opening in the ancient wall of the City of Florence. From the top you can trace a large part of the wall as it snakes across the landscape. Of course, you will have no trouble finding the Duomo from your perch.

Opening in the wall for cars and people

 

The wall from Piazzale Michelangelo

 

The view from Piazzale Michelangelo

 

Another view from the Piazzale Michelangelo

Next stop – Venice (Part 5 of my trip to Italy).

Part 3 – Florence – Winery, Accademia, Duomo, Food, Gelato, and Leather

This fall I took a great trip to Rome, Florence, and Venice. This is part 3 covering Florence. Future posts include more highlights of Florence and Venice.

On the way to Florence, we stopped for lunch at the Castel Vicchiomaggio winery in the Chianti region of Tuscany. High on the top of a hill, the views were amazing, and the wine was to die for!  Eventually, we all made it back onto the bus and continued on to Florence. We stayed at the Hotel Cavour, which was a modern hotel within easy walking distance of all the attractions.

The view from the winery

 

The view from the winery

 

Our first tour in Florence was the Accademia, home to Michelangelo’s sculpture, The Statue of the David (1504). The Accademia has a lot of historical pieces and is a bit low key, until you turn the corner and at the far end of the room, with dramatic lighting and a raised ceiling, is the Statue of the David.

The Statue of the David

 

The Statue of the David

 

The Statue of the David

The word magnificent doesn’t do it justice. Carved from one piece of white marble, Michelangelo was the third sculptor to work on the piece. It was originally commissioned by the Opera del Duomo for the Cathedral of Florence (the Duomo) to be part of a group of sculptures that was to decorate the building 40 feet in the air. This explains why the statue is 14 feet tall and certain features are outsized to support the structure and be seen from a distance.

Declaring the work too perfect to be high up on the Cathedral, it was on display outdoors in the Piazza della Signora until 1873, when it was moved to the Accademia. The exhibit also has some interesting unfinished pieces by Michelangelo, which give a perspective on how the artist approached his work.

The next day we toured the Baptistery, Duomo Cathedral, Duomo Museum, and the Workshop. The Duomo (also known as the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore) was built in the 13th and 14th century adjacent to the smaller church called the Baptistery. The famous dome, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi was added in the 15th century. The interior, especially the artwork in the dome is beautiful. It seemed wherever you went in Florence, you had a glimpse of the Duomo.

The Baptistry

 

Ceiling in the Baptistry

 

The Duomo

Ceiling in the Duomo Dome

Ceiling in the Duomo Dome

 

Glimpses of the Duomo are everywhere.

The Duomo Museum has a wonderful collection of art including works of Michelangelo, Luca della Robbia, and Donatello. It is definitely worth a visit. My favorite part of the museum was the workshop where the beautiful marble columns and other marble components of the Duomo are repaired. A man whose father and grandfather worked in the workshop before him showed us the tools and the process of repairing a marble column. They still use the same tools their forefathers used (with the addition of a couple of modern power tools), but also the same tools the sculptors used when creating their masterpieces.

Florence is not just about art. The food is incredible. For me the most exciting food discoveries were the GROM gelato place and the Starbene Gold Bakery. Both were 100% gluten free, which is magic to the ears of someone with celiac disease, who can’t have a speck of gluten or risk sickness. Let’s just say the woman who ran the bakery and I become fast friends.

Starbene Gold

Florence is known for its leather shops and they are everywhere, both in shops and street vendors. Some are good quality and others are not as good. Our tour guide told us about the leather school (Scuola del Cuoio) that is located on the grounds of the Franciscan Monastery of Santa Croce. After World War II, one of the friars decided to start the school to pass on leather skills to orphaned children so they would have a way to support themselves. Today the students are underprivileged residents of Florence. If you are looking for leather goods, this is the place to go. Not only can you watch the goods being made, but the craftsmanship is beautiful. Here are some pictures from the cases along with a picture of the small wallet I purchased.

See Part 4 for more on Florence and Part 5 for Venice.

Italy – Part 2 – The Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica, and Local Sites

 

This fall I took a great trip to Rome, Florence, and Venice. This is Part 2 covering more sites in Rome. Future posts include Florence and Venice.

One of the highlights of my time in Rome was the visit to the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. Our group had a private tour after hours and it was amazing! There were just 24 of us, including our terrific guide. The museum was deserted except for a handful of security guards, and eerily quiet. We took a leisurely tour of the museum as our guide discussed the history and pointed out interesting aspects of the artworks. Here are some scenes.

 

Fresco at the Vatican Museum

 

Ceiling at the Vatican Museum Gallery of Maps

 

Vatican Museum

 

Gallery of Maps Vatican Museum – Paintings of topographical maps based on drawings by Ignazio Danti

The highlight of the tour was the 45 minutes we spent in the Sistine Chapel. It was dark outside and we had the Chapel to ourselves. The guard unexpectedly allowed us to take pictures without flash. I just had my iphone, but was able to get some reasonably good shots despite the low lighting. Michelangelo worked on the ceiling from 1508-12.

Creation of Adam – Sistine Chapel

 

Downfall of Adam and Eve and Expulsion from the Garden – Sistine Chapel

 

The Prophet Isaiah – Sistine Chapel

This is the view from the Pope’s entrance. The paintings on the ceiling get progressively larger as they move further from the entrance. Some say the effect was deliberate so that all the pictures would look the same size to the Pope, but others say that Michelangelo was being pressured to finish and the last pictures were larger and with less detail in response to this demand. Your guess is as good as mine, but I’m inclined to go with the second explanation after looking at the incredible detail in the early pictures, and the obvious lack of detail in some of the later ones.

Sistine Chapel Ceiling from Pope’s Entrance

Painted on the altar end of the chapel is Michelangelo’s fresco called The Last Judgment (1534-1541).

The Last Judgment – Sistine Chapel

 

Detail – The Last Judgment – Sistine Chapel

The next day I visited St. Peter’s Basilica with some friends from the group. Right inside St. Peter’s is Michelangelo’s Pietà (1498-99). It’s hard to get a good picture because of the protective glass. It’s a beautiful sculpture. Although quite crowded, we were able to see many parts of the basilica.  Despite the basilica’s grandeur, I found it to be wonderfully serene.

Pieta – Michelangelo – St. Peter’s

 

St. Peter’s Basilica

 

Altar – St. Peter’s

 

Altar of Transfiguration – Raphael (1520) – St. Peter’s

 

St. Peter’s Basilica

 

St. Peter’s Basilica

On the walk back from St. Peter’s to our hotel, we stopped at the Local Outdoor Market.  The market contained a bounty of fresh produce and fruits, meats, cheeses, liquors, spices, clothing, crafts, flowers, and much more.

Local Market – Rome

 

Local Market – Rome

 

Off to Florence and Venice!

Rome Part 1 – Colosseum, Forum, Capitoline Museum, Borghese Gallery

Roman Forum

This fall, for my first trip to Italy, I took a Road Scholar tour to Rome, Florence, and Venice. I typically travel on my own, but I wanted to focus on the art and the architecture, and I knew I didn’t have enough background to do it justice. To have experts leading the tours and giving us the background on what we were seeing was amazing.

In Rome, we stayed at the Hotel Tiziano. What a great location! No more than a 30-minute walk to most of the places we wanted to see, but right on the bus line and a block from the taxi stand if you wanted to ride. There were also plenty of great restaurants in the area, as well as small grocery stores and other shops. The hotel has an old world feel, but with everything we needed.

Our first stop was the Colosseum and the Forum. As we approached the Colosseum, I was overwhelmed by the sense of history that was everywhere we went in Rome, and especially this site which was an important part of Roman life. Walking around the site, with the help of our terrific tour guide, I could imagine the activities (many horribly gruesome) that were held there. But I also marveled at the advancement of the construction from the series of elevators that carried animals from the underground areas to the main arena, to running water toilets, and the areas for food and other concessions.

Colosseum

Interior of the Colosseum. See the remains of the elevator shafts in the center.

Between the Colosseum and the Forum is the Arch of Constantine, one of three surviving arches on the site commemorating significant military victories. The carvings on these arches is amazing especially considering the Arch was erected in 315 CE.

Arch of Constantine

The Forum was much larger than I thought it would be. There are ruins of many building and meeting areas. I can see that it was the epicenter of Roman lives at the time with areas for a marketplace, government offices, political events, and many other aspects of Roman history.

Roman Forum from the Capitoline Museum

Roman Forum from the Capitoline Museum

Adjacent to the Roman Forum is the Capitoline Museum. The collection dates back to 1471 and the focus of the exhibits are sculptures and other art closely linked to the city of Rome.  The first picture is the Statue of the Capitoline Gaul which depicts a wounded Gaul in the last moments before succumbing to his wounds. This is a very moving piece that is so different from the typical victorious and triumphant soldier. The Great Hall (second picture) contains a number of works of Greek sculptures. The ancient Romans had a great fascination with Greek art and many Roman artists incorporated Greek styles into their own works. Finally, the third picture shows busts of the ancient Roman and Greek philosophers.

The Capitoline Gaul – Capitoline Museum

Great Hall – Capitoline Museum

Hall of the Philosophers – Capitoline Museum

The Borghese Gallery, adjacent to the Villa Borghese and its beautiful grounds that are now a park, is a must see.  It is the gallery of Cardinal Scipione Borghese (nephew of Pope Paul V)  that was collected in the fifteen and sixteen hundreds.  It highlights works from Caravaggio and Bernini, with works from other renowned artists to include Tiziano, Raphael, Rubens, Botticelli, and Canovas.  Some of my favorites were David, Apollo and Daphne, Rape of Proserpina, and Aeneas, Anchises and Ascanius, all by Bernini.

David – by Bernini -1623-24

Apollo and Daphne – by Bernini – 1622-25

Rape of Proserpina – by Bernini – 1621-22

Aeneas, Anchises, and Ascanius – by Bernini – 1619

 

See Rome – Part 2 for the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, St. Peters Basilica, and Local Sites.

Graffiti in Florence

I’ll admit that I’m not much of a fan of graffiti, but I do understand that the concept of graffiti dates back to historic times and is often an expression of social and political messages. While some communities commission graffiti artists to cover sides of buildings and fences with their artwork, some of the graffiti we see in the U.S. today is not as welcome.

That said, I was fascinated by the graffiti in Florence, Italy that seemed to my uneducated eye to be more artistic and contained, albeit still defacing the buildings. I thought I’d share some of it with you.

Day Trips To Canada From Maine

I have the good fortune to be able to stay with my brother-in-law and sister-in-law on the coast of northern Maine near Gouldsboro for a week each summer. This year I decided to take two separate day trips into Canada.

The first trip was to St. Andrews in New Brunswick. It was about a three hour easy drive up Route 1, crossing the border in St. Stephen (near Calais, ME), and back down the peninsula on the other side of the St. Croix River via Route 127 to St. Andrews. The primary attraction for the day in St. Andrews was the Kingsbrae Garden, which is a 27-acre public garden. Some of the areas include a sculpture garden where sculptures are surrounded by a coordinating garden, perennial gardens, rose gardens, formal gardens, scents and sensitivity gardens, sustainability gardens, peace gardens, and much more. Kingsbrae also has animals and children’s activities, plus a nice place onsite for a picnic lunch. There is a café with a terrace if you prefer more formal dining.

In addition to the Kingsbrae Garden, St. Andrews has a downtown area with shops, restaurants, and places to stay. Surrounded on three sides by water, area businesses offer whale watching, fishing, kayaking and other water adventures. St. Andrews is a great way to do a day trip into Canada from Maine. Make sure you have your passport or passport card with you.

A shorter day trip (about 2 hours) is to Campobello Island, also in New Brunswick. You may recall from the history books that Campobello was the summer home for President Roosevelt and you can tour the house and grounds in what is now Roosevelt Campobello International Park. To get there, take Route 1 past Machias, to Route 189 to Lubec, and then over the FDR International Bridge to the Border Crossing for Campobello Island (again, bring your passport or passport card). Route 774 runs the length of the island and is well marked for the attractions. The views throughout the island are beautiful.

My favorite part of Campobello Island is the Head Harbour Lightstation, which is at the far point of the island in Wilson’s Beach. This is the oldest surviving lighthouse in New Brunswick and is also known as the East Quoddy Light. The grounds are the classic rugged rocks and low trees for the area, and to get to the lighthouse itself you go up and down a series of metal ladders imbedded in the rocks and cross a beach that’s only accessible at low tide. Bring a picnic lunch to eat out at the lighthouse and enjoy the beautiful view. But, watch the tide, or you’ll be stuck out there until the next low tide.

On the way back, be sure to stop in Lubec, ME (the easternmost point in the U.S.) to see the West Quoddy Lighthouse. Also, stop at Monica’s Chocolates on Rt. 189 in Lubec for a special treat and Wild Blueberry Land on Route 1 in Columbia, ME to pick up a box of Maine blueberries and some of the best blueberry pie around.

Even when you are away from home, keep your eye open for interesting day trips from where you are staying. Often these side trips are inexpensive and a great way to explore new places.

 

 

Solo Trip to San Francisco – Summer 2017

In the last post, I shared what I took to San Francisco in my effort to pack light. This post covers some of the highlights of the trip.

With a backpack only weighing 12.5 lbs, navigating the airport and the long walk on my layover was a breeze. I opted to take the airport shuttle recommended by the hostel where I had reservations, but I was the fifth stop and an Uber for $5 more would have been better. However, I did get a good tour of the city.

For the first three nights, I stayed at Hostels International (HI) – Fisherman’s Wharf in Fort Mason National Park. Fort Mason is the port where soldiers shipping out during WWII for the Pacific (including my father) started their journey and is now a national park. The hostel is up on a hill overlooking the bay, with a view of the Golden Gate Bridge. The San Francisco Bay Walking/Bike Trail goes right by the hostel and runs along the bay for miles. It was a 15-minute walk to Fisherman’s Wharf, 20 minutes to Pier 39, and 40 minutes to the Ferry Building. Walking the other way was the Marina area, where hundreds of people were out walking, running, and riding bikes right along the water and once a week they have a Food Truck (and Booth) event called Off the Grid.

Every morning while at Fort Mason I ate breakfast at a picnic table overlooking the bay and every evening watched the sun set over the bay. Although crowded, there are lots of things to do. I went to the Aquarium, some Maritime Museums, and the Exploratorium, which is an amazing place with hundreds of hands on activities for both children and adults. At Pier 39, which is a large commercial area, seals hang out on the docks. I spent hours walking by the bay and roaming around the area. I was amazed at the access people have to the bay.

There is a free swimming area and one evening I watched the large area triathlon group practice their swimming. For people who want to take a boat out onto the bay, there are options both large and small. It seemed like every corner had a bike rental place, and there was tons of public transportation. In the evenings, I hung around the common room, talking with other travelers (many international) or participating in activities such as a Tai Chi class. I decided to decline the Bar Crawl Tour led by one of the hostel employees.

For the fourth through seventh night, I hopped a bus to HI-Downtown. Located in the old Hotel Gloster built in 1907 on Mason Street, the hostel was two blocks from Union Square. This hostel has a totally different vibe – much more urban with fun décor. The Powell Street trolley line ran down the hill on the next street over and of course, Union Square is the big shopping area. In addition, most of the hop on/hop off tour busses stop at Union Square. The hostel was also a couple of blocks from Market Street (and the big public transportation center) and the Ferry Building on the bay is an easy 25-minute walk. It’s a great location to use as a base.

I decided to buy a two day hop on/hop off bus ticket, which offered unlimited rides on four different tours of the city in open air busses. On the first day, I took three of the tours (1-2 hours each), including one that went over the Golden Gate bridge to Sausalito. The tour guides did a great job talking about the history of the area, the impact of the earthquakes, pointing out good places to eat and visit, and interesting stories.

On the second day, I got off the bus in the Golden Gate Park and visited the Japanese Tea Garden and the Botanical Gardens. The Botanical Gardens was having an exhibit called Flower Pianos, where twelve pianos were placed around the gardens and people were encouraged to play them. It was beautiful to walk around the gardens and listen to a variety of piano music. A short walk away was Haight-Ashbury, which was fun to wander through. When I was done, I just hopped back on the bus, and went off to the next place to explore. For my remaining days, I headed back to the bay area, stopping to watch the street performers, reading in the gardens by the water, people watching, eating ice cream, going for long walks, etc.

The highlight of my food finds was the gluten free bakery in the Ferry Building called Mariposa. They had great bread and baked goods, but also savory items like grilled vegetable and feta pockets and an amazing artisan salami sandwich with arugula and sun-dried tomato spread. Having to eat gluten free due to Celiac disease, I get very excited when I find a good gluten free restaurant. With a focus on fried seafood and sourdough bread, San Francisco is not the most gluten free friendly city. Mariposa was within walking distance from both locations (also on the trolley line) and come dinner time, I often found myself heading towards Mariposa.

Staying at the hostels cost me a rate (before hotel tax in the downtown location) of $47 – $65 per night. A light continental breakfast was included. The Fort Mason hostel had eight women in a room and the downtown room had four. I prefer the smaller rooms, but because you are primarily using the room to sleep, it really doesn’t matter that much. Both locations had great common rooms and good communal kitchens.

My advice if you want to try hosteling is to try it for 2 nights. That’s enough time to get a taste of what hosteling travel is like without the risk of ruining your entire vacation if it doesn’t work out. Hosteling isn’t for everyone, but I found that as a single female traveling alone, it provides me with great people to talk to and a sense of community I don’t get when staying by myself in a hotel. Considering the hostels in both locations were full, a lot of people seem to agree.

Hosteling After Age 60 – Yes, You Can!

Source: Sydney Harbour YHA

Inspired by a son who has stayed at hostels and another over 60 traveler I know, who stayed in a hostel for the first time and survived a 12-person co-ed dorm room, I was ready to give hostels a try. Newly retired, I wanted to travel more, but really couldn’t afford a lot of expensive trips.

An easy google search yielded a wealth of information about hostel groups, hostel apps, and enough tips to get me started. Although the focus of most hostels is geared towards the under 35 crowd, I found that Hostelling International (HI) welcomed seniors to their community. The hostels in their system are clean, well appointed, and located in good locations. I was traveling to Broadbeach in Australia to stay with a son who had rented a beach apartment for a business conference (yes there is a conference center in this beach community – genius!).

I decided to take a side trip to Sydney and HI had a hostel that intrigued me. Located in the Rocks Section near the harbor, the HI Sydney Harbour YHA was housed in a modern building, with clean bright rooms and a great communal lounge and shared kitchen. The building was on stilts, perched over an archeological dig and surrounded by historical buildings, plenty of restaurants and small grocery marts, and within easy walking distance of the major attractions. I opted for a 4 bed (2 bunk beds) all female room with an ensuite bath and individual lockers.

Fair warning – some hostels can be quite grubby. Hostelling International appears to have some good standards (at least from my experience so far) and has ratings for staff, cleanliness, location, security, service, comfort and green rating. A search site, Hostelworld (which has an app), also has good information. Trip Advisor review hostels in many areas. Although cost is important to me, I’m not interested in the cheapest option. I’m looking for good value that supplements, rather than takes away from my travel experience.

 My first roommates were women (aged 25-35) from Great Britain, Belgium, and Finland. The second night, the woman from Great Britain remained and we were joined by two college aged women from South Korea. For the most part, people did not hang out in their rooms, but either were out and about, or spent the evening in the common lounge. There was no shortage of people to talk with in the lounge and I soon realized that likely 25% of the people there were not what I would consider traditional users of hostels.

There were families (a private family room was cheaper than many hotels and provided access to the communal kitchen), others my age, one gentleman in his 80’s with another family member, and everything in between. People were sharing meals, information about things to do, and insights about life in their country and community. The second night I had a 3-hour conversation with my roommate from Great Britain and it was fascinating to hear her take on our recent presidential election, government sponsored health care, the EU, as well as some of the other places she had traveled on a shoestring.

Source: Sydney Harbour YHA

As I climbed into bed the first night, I had that feeling reminiscent of the first night of college, sleeping in the same room as strangers, but it was fleeting. The women the first night were very courteous (window open or closed, light left on or off in the bathroom, who had to get up and out in the morning, etc.).

The second night, the two younger women wandered in around 2 after clearly having more than a couple of drinks, zipped and unzipped their luggage no less than 30 times, and finally climbed into bed where one of them snored and ground her teeth so loudly it was painful to listen to. I found the value of good earplugs and soon was back to sleep after a busy day of sightseeing. The young women were still in bed when I left the room for breakfast the next morning.

Fortunately, I had read enough blogs to heed some suggestions on how to be a courteous roommate. Among them are 1) keep a flashlight in your bed so you can get into your locker without turning on the light, 2) lay out your clothes for the next day along with your toiletries so you can shower and get ready quietly in the bathroom, 3) keep the items in your locker organized so you don’t need to rummage, and 4) make sure your flip flops are handy because even though the bathroom was spotless, you want some protection for your feet.

Food is kept in an individual cubby in the kitchen or in a tagged bag in the refrigerator. Most people kept only small quantities of food to cover just the time there were there. The kitchen is well equipped with pots, pans, dishes, silverware, and utensils. Everyone is expected to clean up after themselves and for the most part, the kitchen was quite clean.

The enthusiastic people who worked at the hostel knew where everything was and a wall in the common area had all kinds of information on the area, things to do, coupons and discounts, and directions on how to get to places. They also served a bare bones breakfast from a small kitchen area and had a few other food items for sale.

Source: Sydney Harbour YHA

Many of the young people were traveling for some time, and carried huge backpacks with lots of extra possessions lashed to the outside, as well as regular backpacks worn as a front pack. As I watched them struggle under the load, I began to fully appreciate the concept of packing light. I had chosen to limit myself to a small bag (15 lbs) and a minimalist approach to avoid baggage charges, and I was hooked after experiencing how easy it was to travel with a small, light bag. My last day I went sightseeing after checkout, carrying all my possessions, without a problem.

After this positive experience, I knew hosteling would be part of my future travel plans.

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