Month: June 2019

Stop 3 of 12 – Berlin, Germany

On June 20, 2019

Recently I took a 7-week walkabout to 12 cities in Europe. My third stop was Berlin, Germany. The trip from Hamburg to Berlin was an easy one, with nothing but beautiful countryside until about an hour away. I stayed in a private room at the Generator Hostel in Mitte, so I was within easy walking distance of everything I wanted to see.

I decided to start my exploration of Berlin with a four hour Discover Berlin walking tour with Original Berlin Walks (www.berlinwalks.de). Our English-speaking tour guide, Sam Z, really knew the history of the city and had interesting stories wherever we went. Of the twenty or so people on the tour, I was the only American and we represented about seven different countries. It was interesting to hear all the different perspectives about what we were seeing. Our tour covered about two dozen places including Bradenburg Gate, Museum Island, the TV tower, Unter den Linden, the location of Hitler’s Bunker, and the Berlin Cathedral.

Berlin Cathedral
Bradenburg Gate
TV Tower
Unter den Linden

Two places really stood out for me. The first was Bebelplatz which was the scene of the Nazi book burning in 1933. The German Student Union burned 20,000 books which were considered subversive or represented ideologies that were opposed to Nazism. Examples included books by Jewish authors, pacifists, religious leaders, liberals, socialists, and communists. The memorial includes a view into an underground room that has empty shelves. On the day we were there, the Berlin Outdoor Library was set up on the site, providing floor cushions, seating, umbrellas, and books for readers of all ages.

The second place was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (aka Holocaust Memorial). From the street, the memorial designed by architect Peter Eisenman and engineer Buro Happold, looks like a non-descript grid of over 2,700 dark gray slabs. We were instructed to walk through the memorial for 15 -20 minutes and then gather on the other side for a discussion of our experience. As you enter, you quickly realize that the path between the slabs undulates and significantly slopes downward as you head towards the center. Soon the slabs are soaring 10 feet over your head and you only get glimpses of other people as they cross the grid or briefly share the path. The space between the slabs is narrow and the path is uneven and flowing, giving the feeling of being off balance. I found myself feeling trapped, isolated, and confused. The others in the tour had similar feelings and some speculated that the memorial was designed to let the visitor interpret the memorial in their own way.

I couldn’t help but notice the unique symbols on the walk lights. Our guide told us about the Amplemann. These symbols were developed in East Germany in an effort to increase compliance by using symbols that were more understandable by young and old alike. When Germany unified, there was a movement to save these important symbols because they were effective, and also were a positive artifact from East German life. The duo is so popular they have cult status and their own souvenir stores throughout the city.

Source: Wikipedia

Berlin has some amazing museums and many to choose from. The German History Museum was an excellent study of the history of Germany. Each exhibit was in a free-standing glass container that were arranged chronologically, and moveable partitions created a serpentine path through the various sections. Throughout the exhibit, there was a lot of information presented in both German and English. When I was done, I felt like I had read an entire history book.

The DDR museum is an interactive museum about everyday life in East Germany. Visitors get to see what an apartment looked like, see what people did for recreation, what food they ate, what they wore, and many other aspects of daily life. It’s a relatively small museum, but extremely well done and satisfied my curiosity about life in Eastern Germany.

The Berlin Wall Memorial extends for almost a mile along the actual location of the wall on Bernauer Strasse. There is a visitor center with some excellent historical information and an attached viewing platform so you can see from above what a section of the wall looked like on both sides. Certain parts of the actual wall are preserved, and a series of metal slats denote where other parts of the wall were located. Along the open-air exhibit that runs along the wall path, there are photos, written accounts, and recordings telling details of the area. In the early days of the wall construction, the houses along Bernauer Strasse offered a unique opportunity for escape because people could enter the houses on the Eastern side and jump out the windows on the Western side. The police quickly destroyed the houses, but the area later became the location of several tunnels, and to me an epicenter of the desperation the people on both sides faced.

Modern day Berlin is a very pleasant city to visit. People are friendly and it has a very international vibe. I was also impressed with how open the citizens and institutions are about the city’s unfortunate place in world history and the efforts made to learn from the past and move forward. There are so many more things I would like to experience in Berlin and I hope to return on future travels.

Stop 2 of 12 – Hamburg, Germany

By Pam Q.

On June 17, 2019

In Destinations

Recently I took a 7-week walkabout to 12 cities in Europe. I decided to stop in Hamburg, Germany for a few days on my way to Berlin. It’s not that Hamburg has an amazing general tourist draw, but some of its history intrigued me. I took the Flixbus from Amsterdam and loved seeing the countryside. Hundreds of wind turbines dotted the agricultural fields and along the roadways were brilliant yellow fields of rapeseed.

Hamburg is a large city, so I took the Die Roten Doppeldecker Stadtrund Farht (Hop on and Hop Off) bus tour, which was excellent. Although the guide spoke German, headsets for English (and other) translations were available. Some of the things I learned on the tour were:

Source: https://www.die-roten-doppeldecker.de/en/

Water plays an important role in the city. The city is located on the River Elbe where it joins the River Alster and River Bille. The River Alster was dammed in several places to create two lakes within the city center called the Inner Alster and the Outer Alster. There are beautiful walking paths around the ‘lakes’. Hamburg is Europe’s third largest port and there are more than 2,500 bridges over the various canals and waterways within the city – more than Amsterdam, Venice, and London combined.

The beautiful diplomatic area has a number of large mansions and meeting sites along the outer Alster. The area is known for hosting significant international conferences and summits such as the G20. The current German Chancellor, Angela Merkel is from Hamburg as was the former chancellor Helmut Schmidt.

Hamburg was almost totally destroyed by the bombing in WWII, but by 1960 had rebuilt substantially and become an economic center. The rebuilding continues and the latest major project is the Hafen City which will house 10,000 residents and 15,000 workers.

MonckebergstraBe – Main Shopping Street
MonckebergstraBe – Main Shopping Street

Admittedly the connection of the Beatles was one of the things I was interested in learning about. In 1960 when the Beatles were still developing, Hamburg was much more financially secure than Liverpool, and offered fledgling bands an opportunity to intern in the Reeperbahn, which was the large red-light district of Hamburg near the seaport. The living conditions were awful, but the bands got experience performing in front of live audiences for hours at a time, as well as exposure to others in the music industry. The Reeperbahn area hasn’t changed much, but tourists not interested in the nighttime pleasures and entertainment are welcome to wander through during the day and the hop on, hop off buses do a tour of the area.

The city has a large park in the city center called Planten un Blomen, which is open to the public and has walking paths and gardens of various styles surrounding a waterway.

Art at Planten un Blomen
Planten un Blomen

I also had the opportunity to visit the Museum for Kunst and Gewerbe (arts and crafts/industry), which focuses on understanding people by the tangible things they use in their life. For example, there is an exhibit of story telling on Greek vases used in symposium, which is a drinking party where people discussed certain issues or learned about a topic. The pictures on the vases gave a good glimpse into what these symposia looked like and how they fit into the society.

Another exhibit I found fascinating was an exhibit on the items used in Jewish rituals and how many of them were obtained by the museum. During WWII, the Nazis ordered all Jews to turn over silver and other valuables. Various museum curators negotiated to save some of these items for historical exhibits and at the end of the war, were able to acquire others to preserve this important part of Jewish history.

MonckebergstraBe Fountain

I stayed at Boutique 020 Hamburg in the St. Georg area which is a hip, modern hotel, with small well-appointed rooms. When I tried to leave the hotel the morning after arrival, I discovered that the small lobby and the sidewalk outside the entrance had been turned into a movie set. I had to wait off to the side until a break in the action to leave, but it was fun to watch. Outside, the hotel signs were all renamed and there were extras who were walking in the background, plus a ton of trucks, equipment, and people. I never found out what the movie was, but everything was back to normal at the end of the day.

Hamburg offers a different look at Germany. It’s doesn’t have the charm of Bavaria and isn’t infused with Medieval architecture, but is nice glimpse of a modern German City that has a great combination of beautiful waterways, lush parks, fun entertainment, and a strong sense of history.

Next stop: Berlin, Germany

Stop 1 of 12 – Haarlem and Amsterdam, The Netherlands

By Pam Q.

On June 13, 2019

In Destinations

Recently I took a 7-week walkabout to 12 cities in Europe. The first stop on my journey was the Haarlem and Amsterdam area of The Netherlands. I chose to stay in Haarlem because it is a beautiful town that is much lower key, and only a 15-minute train ride to Amsterdam. The tourist area of Haarlem – the older part of town – is about a 1.25 x 1.25 mile square so you can easily walk to all areas. From Schiphol airport, I picked up the #300 bus, which dropped me off at the Harlem Central Train Station, about a 10-minute walk to my hotel.

Haarlem, NL, not to be confused with Harlem, NY (originally Nieuw Haarlem, a Dutch outpost founded in 1658), is a medieval era town with historic buildings, cobblestone streets, canals, and few cars. Simple bicycles (no need for multiple gears due to the flat terrain) and walking are the favored mode of transportation. Subtle pattern differences in the cobblestone sidewalks denote the bike lanes, so be careful not to stop in the middle of one as I did when trying to get my bearings when I arrived. The kind person who almost hit me patiently pointed out the not so obvious bike lane. After 10 am, there are very few cars, so the streets are filled with walkers strolling along.

In the central area, shops and restaurants with outdoor dining occupy the first floor of the buildings, with apartments, hotels, and offices above. The whole vibe is to relax, eat, stroll around, and enjoy your time there. My hotel (Ambassador City Centre Hotel) was right around the corner from Grote Markt – the big market square with the old town hall – and I could see the Grote Kerk Cathedral from my hotel window.

The highlight of my trip was a visit to Keukenhof Gardens, which is the famous tulip garden. The tourist information office in Haarlem sells tickets and the local bus to Lisse stops at the gardens. The bus travels through other towns and the countryside, making the gardens an easy place to visit and giving me a glimpse of local life along the way.

The garden exhibit only runs for 7-8 weeks each spring when the tulips and daffodils are in bloom. I was there on a sparkling day and the colors were brilliant! The area is huge, with all different styles of plantings and plenty of paths and places to sit to enjoy the view. I spent about three hours walking about – just in awe at the beauty.

The next two days I took the train into Amsterdam. On the first day, I walked all over, getting a flavor for the city with it’s canals, museum park, Vondel park, red light district, trams, street markets, and amazing architecture. On the second day, I went to the Rijksmuseum taking one of the crazy trams from the train station. The trams twist and turn as they move down the streets like a snake, making the ride an adventure in itself.

Bicycles are everywhere! Most of the bikes are a standard simple design, but what people attach to those bikes is fascinating. There are deep wheelbarrow type containers that attach and extend beyond the front wheel for carrying supplies or kids. Many bikes have little seats on the bikes themselves for young children and I saw a couple of newborn style car seats attached to the fronts of bikes. People use all sorts of bags, baskets, and panniers, both affixed and not. Finally, you see every sort of trailer imaginable. Notably missing are bike helmets and special biking clothes. When they get to their destination, people just leave their bike in the sea of bikes, mostly unlocked, at every destination. Biking is as laid back as everything else in this area.

Bikes Parked Outside Amsterdam Central Train Station

The Rijksmuseum has an amazing collection dedicated to Dutch art and history from the middle ages to the present day. The highlight was the special exhibit called All the Rembrandts. It started with Rembrandt’s early attempts at drawing, which were a series of hundreds of very small sketches of his self portraits with different hats and expressions. These early drawings were rough and frankly not very good. But he persisted and began to draw small sketches of people and animals, which began to improve over time and gives an interesting glimpse into Dutch life in the 17^th century. As he matured, Rembrandt evolved into the master of faces and emotion that he is famous for. For me the exhibit was a reminder that behind those masterful works of art we see in the museum, are years and years of practice, trial and error, and hard work.

Rembrandt Van Rijn – 1662 – Syndics of the Draper’s Guild (Rijksmuseum)

A word about the museums in Amsterdam. I was lucky to have purchased a ticket online well before my visit at the urging of one of my sons who had been to the museum. When I later tried to get tickets to the Van Gogh and Anne Frank museums, the tickets were sold out. So, if you are visiting Amsterdam, go online and order your tickets early.

Each day after the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam, I returned to bucolic Haarlem to enjoy long walks, picnics in the park, and watching people from all cultures enjoying this beautiful area. I would go back there in a heartbeat!

Next stop – Hamburg, Germany!