This summer I hiked the West Highland Way with a friend. One of the bonuses of that hike was visiting Glasgow a couple of days before the hike (see previous post) and Edinburgh for a few days after the hike.
The day after finishing the hike, we took the long slow train ride from Ft. William back through Glasgow to Edinburgh (see earlier blog post). The UK was in the midst of a huge heat wave, and the train was significantly delayed because of issues with the track due to the heat. As we exited Waverly Station and I looked around through the warm haze, I knew I would love this city. We stayed in a private room in the HI Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel, which is outside the central area, but an easy walk to old town and other areas.
Our first stop was the Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile. The castle offers a glimpse into the history of the area, and is a great vantage point to view the city. The walk up to the castle is quite steep, but definitely worth it. But beware, this area is very crowded.
Right outside the castle area, on the Royal Mile, is the Tartan Weaving Mill, which has floors of tartan woolen goods from many mills. It’s fun to walk through and appreciate all the beautiful items. Down in the basement is a weaving display which is interesting. People debate whether the prices are higher in this store than at other areas in the city, but I didn’t see much of a difference in price, and the variety was much greater than the smaller individual stores. I bought a scarf for myself and for a friend who was helping me hold down the fort at home. The Royal Mile was fun to walk down, but for me, once was enough. (Although I would have happily returned to the fudge shop). However, it’s fun to wander down the side streets and the old town area in general.
Not too far from the Royal Mile is the Writer’s Museum. Tucked away in Lady Stairs Close (alleyway), off the Haymarket, this museum has a collection of manuscripts, portraits, rare books, and personal objects to highlight the lives of three Scottish writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Lewis Stevenson. The museum is housed in a townhouse originally built in 1622 for Sir William Gray and Lady Gray. It is a tall narrow house with a great small circular staircase.
For an interesting experience and a nice lunch, visit the National Museum of Scotland. This is a fascinating museum with lots of exhibits that are different from what I’ve seen in other museums. I especially appreciated the four story “Window on the World” exhibit in the Grand Gallery, which covers four stories open to the main floor. On one of the upper levels is a nice café with tables that overlook the exhibits.
Dovecot Studios (Infirmary Street) is an amazing tapestry and creative arts studio that operates in what was originally the Infirmary Street Baths, which were the first public baths in Edinburgh, dating back to 1885. The Dovecot Tapestry Studio occupies what used to be the old swimming pool. From the balcony cat walk around the studio, you can watch artists at work and tapestry classes in progress. There are also various exhibits throughout the facility.
If you enjoy modern art, the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One and Two, is a fun place to visit. It is actually two separate buildings set in a sculpture park. There is a circular bus that runs between this museum, the National Portrait Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery if you want to see all three in one day.
We spent an entire afternoon wandering around New Town which houses many of the city’s restaurants and hotels, and retains much of its neo-classical and Georgian period architecture. There are a lot of fun shops on Princes Street and George Street. Rose Street runs parallel to Princes and George Street and has a number of eateries and pubs. Friends recommended Hendersons Salad Table Vegetarian Restaurant on Hanover Street and it was excellent.
After three days of sightseeing, we returned back to Waverly Station for the train to London. I really enjoyed my time in Edinburgh and can’t wait to return in the future.
See future blog posts on the sights of London.
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